Organic cotton has spawned a new line in many fast fashion brands. One expert said this is one of the most environmentally friendly raw materials to date. However, the process of spinning, weaving, and dyeing still causes quite a lot of pollution.
What is organic cotton? sustainable solution or marketing gimmick?
If fabric recycled from shrimp shells, coffee grounds, soybean fibers, pandan leaves, etc. is still in the experimental stage, the world, of organic cotton appeared before sustainable fashion became a movement. years. When ordinary cotton “dominates” the garment market with a large number of microplastics discharged into the ecosystem, not to mention the growing and growing process of fibers also causes many bad effects, organic cotton has been researched as a solution for this problem. future.
First, cotton is a natural and reusable source of raw materials. But cotton has never been listed as a sustainable material. Heike Hess of the International Natural Textile Industry Association (IVN) said:
IN TRADITIONAL COTTON FARMING, THE SOIL IS OFTEN OVER-FERTILIZED, LEADING TO DEGRADATION. AS A RESULT, MORE WATER WILL BE EXPENDED TO FEED THE COTTON PLANTS THAT ARE ROOTED IN AN ARID GROUND.”
In the opinion of the associations representing the manufacturers of synthetic fibers, if you put on the balance between cotton and synthetic fibers, synthetic fibers are really the better choice. Although this material is not biodegradable and eventually becomes microplastics, in all ecological respects, this fiber reduces pressure on agricultural land, freeing up space. to grow more food. Not to mention, they do not need to use “a whole block of water” in the process of care.
However, Hess argues that this comparison is not exhaustive, because we have forgotten to take into account the amount of crude oil required for the production of synthetic fibers. The extraction and use of crude oil emit a large amount of CO2 leading to global warming.
At this time, organic cotton has appeared to “cease” the controversy between two factions that actually have a negative impact on the environment. Organic cotton fibers are different from regular cotton because they are harvested from “two-no” cotton plants: non-GMO and free of pesticides and chemical fertilizers.
“GROWING COTTON ACCORDING TO THE ORGANIC PROCESS DEFINITELY SAVES WATER BECAUSE THE QUALITY OF THE SOIL IS GUARANTEED. FARMERS ALSO INTERCROP DIFFERENT CROPS BETWEEN COTTON FIELDS TO REPEL INSECTS, CREATE ADDITIONAL SHADE AND MINIMIZE EROSION. THIS MEANS THAT THE SOIL IS HEALTHIER AND HAS MORE LIFE IN IT.” – ACCORDING TO HESS.
As mentioned in the articles in the #ELLEGreenTalk column, sustainability is a highly inclusive word. It not only comes from the textile materials that make up the clothes we wear every day, but it also comes from fairness and transparency in labor welfare, transportation process, etc. Using organic cotton as a standard is a good starting point, but not a determining factor in the “green” of the product.
Because although organic materials are more environmentally friendly, industrial production processes including spinning, weaving, dyeing, and sewing inevitably consume a lot of energy and generate harmful waste. How do you know if the shirt you wear is really as sustainable as you think? Heike Hess advises savvy consumers to carefully read certification labels.
This is a certificate that authenticates the percentage of organic cotton that is clearly sourced in the product. However, the certification does not specify what the minimum percentage of organic cotton must be. Hess said that there are products with only 5% or more mixed with other materials that can fully meet the standards of Textile Exchange.
This is the standard that measures the entire production chain, not just raw materials. This certification requires at least 70% organic fibers. Products with the suffix “organic” are also required to be 95% organic. However, GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) is not yet popular in the market.
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