Throughout history, fashion has renewed and repeated itself over and over again. That repetition is called Laver’s law.
Laver loop and the explosion of social networks: has the fashion cycle completely shortened?
In 1937, art and fashion historian James Laver first talked about trend theory in his book Taste and Fashion. According to Laver, when a fashion trend appears, it will be judged as “smart”. A year before this trend was born, people thought it was “outré”. 20 years later, it will be “ridiculous” and 50-150 years later, the trend will be popular again. Some typical trends that represent Laver’s law include shoulder pads, pencil skirts, and kitten heels.
Nearly a century on, the fashion industry still follows Laver’s law of the trend loop. Balenciaga revived the haute couture legacy more than half a century ago with the Fall/Winter 2021 collection containing the house’s historic silhouettes and Cristóbal Balenciaga’s idiosyncratic style. Dior’s Men’s Fall/Winter 2023 collection is like a nostalgic movie of the glory days led by young designer Yves Saint Laurent, who reinterprets gray wool tunics and traditional tops. of fisherman or animal skin motifs.
At Kourtney Kardashian’s wedding in May 2022, the fashion world was shocked when the outfits worn by the Kardashian family at the wedding were archival designs from the old collections of the Dolce & family. Gabbana. In particular, the satin white mini wedding dress exclusively designed by Dolce & Gabbana with the signature “devotion heart” symbol of Italian fashion house Dai Loi gave the bride a classic, luxurious, and mysterious look. Once again, the world remembers a Dolce & Gabbana with heritage designs and creations, not sensitive and unsophisticated statements.
Repeating but not copying the same, heritage always goes hand in hand with modern touches reflecting the development of society. For example, today’s Dior suit models, while retaining the slim waistline and elegant spirit of the “bar” suit in stock, have been softened and modernized to suit the needs of the wearer. needs of contemporary customers.
Over the past few years, the trend loop seems to have shortened. Each trend generally only takes 20 years to become popular again. The proof is that in 2013-2014, we witnessed the revival of hip-hop fashion from the 90s. From the second half of 2020 until the end of 2022, the Y2K style of the 2000s has returned and caused a global fever.
This comes from the influence of the Internet, social media, and the fast fashion industry. In the near future, Gothic, a fashion style that is somewhat dark, and ghostly but imbued with the wearer’s personality, is also promised to return stronger after dominating the fashion catwalks of Dior, Louis Vuitton, Rick Owens, Versace and actively promoted by top fashionistas such as Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid, Hailey Bieber. Minimalism, Pop art,
Social media has completely changed the landscape, it has made trends more unpredictable and elusive. Y2K is a relatively long-lived trend. On the contrary, some trends only emerge overnight and disappear almost immediately, Kenzo’s tiger sweater is an example. More than 10 years ago, the trendsetter of the fashion world were editors and designers.
All that has changed since Instagram was born in 2010. With more than 4 million users and more than 100 million photos shared every day, Instagram has become a social network that has a great influence on consumers, by For example, three-quarters of purchases are “driven” by photos on the social media platform. Instagram can be 6 to 12 months ahead of the trend.
Social networks create fashionistas, influencers… and according to a report from Big Commerce, 91% of consumers tend to follow the opinions or imitate the style and lifestyle of these influencers because they feel “more trusting and closer”. Jennie (Blackpink) is a prime example when it comes to fashionistas who bring huge profits to brands from just a few photos on Instagram.
Marc Worth, the co-founder of Worth Global Style Network, said today’s fashion requires a new approach to create trends more effectively.
Luxury brands, largely still tied to the cycle of seasonal shows, are forced to act to keep up with the pace of social media. Following the flow of modern fashion, major fashion houses such as Dior, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and many others have quickly launched outstanding products following the Y2K trend. These fashion houses also do not ignore sustainable trends and virtual fashion trends because that is what young consumers care about first.
Research by First Insight shows that three-quarters of Gen Z customers prioritize sustainability over the brand name when making a purchase. According to the FIS® report, 62% of Gen Z consumers say they are interested and ready to purchase the virtual universe.
Faced with a decline in their ability to produce a trend, fashion houses are having to assert themselves through bold shows with powerful messages. How can we forget the Fall/Winter 2022 collection where Balenciaga brought tearful migrations, fierce wars, and even a dire prospect of climate change on the catwalk? With the spring 2023 collection, this fashion house has exposed the truths that luxury fashion has been hiding for so long. These “fables” have succeeded in bringing the brand’s image to the surface from the influence of social networks, and “closing” a new role for fashion shows.
It can be seen that, although social networks have made fashion trends more elusive, it has also gradually become a new playground, helping brands keep up with the times in addition to preserving and continuing their heritage.
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