The KHAAR Brand “Hair” Collection, which is about to be performed at the ELLE Fashion Show on December 17, will show how high technology is applied to sustainable fashion. Designer Ngo Hoang Kha shares how he brings traditional beauty into the future of fashion with thorough research.
Khaar’s aspiration for a green and modern fashion industry
The KHAAR brand was just established in early 2022 when the effects of the COVID-19 pandemic had subsided and life began to enter a new normal. For other designers or brands, it can be a time to come back after a long pause or break. But for Kha himself, it was a drastic time for a change from deep inside, because it can be said that Kha was still in the safe zone before, despite witnessing and experiencing changes. sudden changes in the external environment, from economic to social. Stopping a stable and potential job at a multinational company in fashion and apparel, Kha decided to create a brand bearing her name, containing meaningful core values as the response of a Young designer with the times, with the environment, looking forward to a more sustainable future of fashion in many aspects: Vietnamese traditional culture, Recycled and 3D Virtual Design.
KHAAR – is a simple combination of my name – Kha – and “AR” (Augmented reality); or “And Recycling”. KHAAR will not only be a regular fashion line but a “phygital” brand, where there are real, ready-to-wear costumes but in addition, there will be 3D virtual costumes, which enhance and expand the virtual “wearing” or “owning” experience in the new era of WEB3 or Metaverse.
Those were the first designs created under the name KHAAR, meaning the beginning of the beginning, so Kha also wanted to find an original, most basic idea, inspiration, something. both beautiful and romantic, at the same time simple and ordinary. So Kha chose the woman’s hair.
In folklore, our forefathers used to say “the hair is the root of man”. In daily life, hair is associated with all activities and gestures. It is in science that hair also contains DNA and defines a person’s identity. Coincidentally, in terms of design, hair takes on the form of fibers like lines, which is one of the most basic units in design and creation. From yarn that we weave cloth, make clothes.
The smallest and most original can contain the most identity and identity values. The fact that artists want to find basic materials, having the smallest unit in a whole, such as DNA, seeds, and fibers… to flexibly use them for their creations is almost an option. choose instinct.
Around the beginning of this year, you also introduced part of the Hair Collection. So is the collection you are about to show an evolved version of the previous collection of the same name?
As a designer brand, built in the direction of sustainability, KHAAR will not follow the traditional cycle of the market which is to build and launch seasonal and trending collections. The small collections in this first year want to tell stories to shape the identity and colors of the brand and speak about the beauty of fabrics and “backbone” materials.
With the basic starting image of “hair”, the development direction of inspiration and the next story will be very wide, diverse, and multidimensional in terms of culture, time, and space.
Hair has three parts that go from the most basic forms and colors ( white, black, ivory, and skin tones ) to playful explorations and then free and bold liberation. Just like how people treat their hair, from the way of letting go of their hair in childhood to the delicate care of adulthood and self-assertion as an adult.
Slim shape, natural hug, soft fluttering with body movements; The details of yarn, tassels, knitting, knitting, tying, braiding … will metaphor for the beauty of Vietnamese hair. In addition, the most unique is handmade materials recycled from discarded fabrics (collected from companies, garment offices, small tailors, and even KHAAR studios). All pieces of fabric with a variety of colors and textures are cut, stitched, sewn into new surfaces, or mixed in crochet, hand-woven, and embroidered pieces.
The rest are intact materials that are carefully selected for sustainable, environmentally friendly fiber composition such as cupro silk, linen, eco-vero rayon, viscose… or natural silk from a local textile factory from Bao Loc (Lam Dong), Binh Dinh.
It is impossible not to mention the design process as well as the 3D virtual costumes that KHAAR will combine and present in the show, a unique element that highlights the game of technology that KHAAR is pursuing.
Nearly 60% of the traditional workload and the loss of time, manpower, and materials have been reduced thanks to 3D technology. This intervention is very flexible and has wide application. From a few stages to the whole process, including visualizing the initial pattern, changing textures, editing short lengths, proportions, and detailed styles… of the first prototype and prototype. the “n” thing on the computer screen before being officially modeled for the catwalk. Even for designs with graphic elements, color blocks, or textures, the 3D visualization connects directly to the final fabric, precisely from fabric size to pattern matching. with textures on each piece…
However, for designers, or design brands that are operating in the traditional way, it is true that 3D is still quite vague, or is only incorporated into marketing, painting, and attracting the attention of customers. the media or the cult.
Technology is like an iceberg with the surface being the most “Virtual”, which we see every day through computer screens, TVs, VR glasses, or phones; but its sink is enormous, and can interfere with and change the creative and production apparatus.
For a stable machine or system for decades to change, replace, or streamline some jobs, it takes time to adapt. Learning how a piece of software works can take only a few weeks or months, but the most important thing is still the mindset and working habits, which can take 5-10 years to change. The biggest adaptation needs to come from the mindset of the leader of that brand or apparatus. A lot of learning, practice, trial, and error needs to be done for virtual technology to really bring real value.
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